Cordovan is one of those leathers that only gets better with age, it's dense, incredibly durable, and develops a deep, rolling shine that smooth cowhide simply can't match. But that beautiful patina doesn't happen by itself. A quick weekly routine keeps the leather supple, prevents cracking, and builds up that signature glow over time.
What You'll Need
- Horsehair Cleaning Brush, for dusting and initial prep
- Saphir Renovateur Cream, conditions the leather and opens the pores
- Saphir Cleaning Cloth, for applying cream
- Saphir Cordovan Cream, the star product, specially formulated for cordovan leather
- Horsehair Polishing Brush, for bringing up the shine
- Saphir Polishing Cloth, for the final buffing
- Shoe trees, to maintain shape during care
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Remove Laces and Insert Shoe Trees
Take out your laces and pop in your shoe trees. The trees hold the shape while you work and smooth out any creases, making it easier to get cream into the folds. And if your laces are starting to show their age, this is a good moment to think about a replacement pair.
2. Brush Off Dust and Debris
With your horsehair cleaning brush, sweep the entire shoe using long, even strokes. This removes surface dust and any loose dirt that could scratch the leather during the polishing steps. Don't skip the welt seam where the upper meets the sole, grit loves to hide there.
3. Apply Renovateur Cream
Using a cleaning cloth, apply a thin layer of Renovateur Cream in small circular motions across the whole shoe. This step conditions the leather and opens the pores, preparing them to absorb the cordovan cream that comes next. Think of it as the primer before the main coat, it makes everything that follows work better.
4. Apply Cordovan Cream
This is the most important step. Start by working the Cordovan Cream along the sides and welt seams using back-and-forth motions. Then move to the main panels, paying special attention to any creases and folds where the leather flexes. Don't forget the area where the upper meets the sole, this joint takes a lot of stress. Let the cream sit for a few minutes to absorb before the next step.
5. Polish with a Horsehair Brush
Using your polishing brush, work the shoe with quick, light strokes to build up the shine. The heat from the friction helps the wax in the cream spread evenly and bond to the leather. You'll see the shine start to emerge almost immediately.
6. Buff to a Finish
Wrap your polishing cloth around your fingers and give the shoe a final buff. Use gentle, circular motions, the cloth picks up any excess product and brings the leather to a smooth, even glow. That deep cordovan shine? This is where it happens.
Pro Tips
- The Cordovan Cream is specifically formulated for this type of leather, regular shoe cream won't give you the same results because cordovan has a unique fiber structure.
- You generally don't need waterproofing spray on cordovan. The cream's high wax content naturally repels water, and cordovan's dense structure makes it more water-resistant than most leathers.
- Weekly care sounds like a lot, but once you're in the rhythm, the whole process takes about 10 minutes per pair.
While you're caring for your shoes, why not treat them to a fresh pair of laces? Browse our full collection to find the perfect match.